A Brew With Bite

The Scots know their malts. Unfortunately, my first road trip across Scotland didn't allow enough time for a detour to Aberdeenshire. I say unfortunately because that very same year, a little less than two months before I arrived in fact, a couple of guys and a chocolate lab started a brewery in Fraserburgh on the coast of the North Sea.

So it wasn't until my neighborhood beer merchant began to carry their malty products that I finally got to try BrewDog. But instead of choosing Punk IPA, their most popular style, I opted for the more unusual and enigmatic Dogma, a heather honey infused ale.

At 7.8% alcohol by volume, Dogma packs a punch, especially if you finish a 660ml bottle by yourself, as I did last night while watching the season premiere of "The Office." It didn't acquire much head when I poured a glass, and to my nose, smelled strongly of overripe fruit and honey. The malts came through in the flavor and although my taste buds did identify notes of bitter honey, they haven't yet learned to distinguish a kola nut from a guarana seed. Poppy seed on the other hand, really stood out in the lingering finish.

I'd definitely recommend trying this complex beer, ideally at pub like The Halfway House, Edinburgh's smallest (and one-time Scottish pub of the year). I'm guessing it could go well with an order of stovies and oat cakes.

Not Just for Chugging Anymore

My first visit to Italy was far too brief. I guess I should've known that four days wouldn't be nearly enough time to explore Lombardy, let alone the rest of the country. But without the luxury of European vacation benefits, I booked my flight to Milan's Malpensa airport anyway, resolving to cram as much sightseeing as I possibly could into a mere 96 hours abroad.

I stayed with my friend Alessandro in Como, and fortunately, he was more than happy to play tour guide for the weekend. He showed me the view over the lake from Brunate, introduced me to the dance scene at Tartaruga, and then, on my last night there, took me to an excellent brewpub, or birrificio.

Liking what I tasted there, I wanted to track down other Italian craft beers once I got back to New York. Although in 2003 I wasn't going to have much luck finding anything beyond Peroni and Birra Moretti. Things have changed in the years since. Earlier this summer I discovered that my favorite local purveyor of malty beverages stocks styles from several smaller producers. As you can imagine, this was a rather joyous occasion. Putting together a tasting of distinctive Italian brews can now be accomplished with a single trip to Bierkraft. Unfortunately, it will also leave a dent in your drinking budget—perhaps no more than a similar quantity of good wine would set you back however.

Of the beers that I've tried so far, Birra del Borgo's Re Ale Extra ($11.95 for a 12.7 oz. bottle) is one I'd describe as perfetto. Pouring a bright, coppery-orange, this super-saison smells sweet and fruity and leaves traces of its three hop varieties on your tongue. For the Italophile, resistance is futile. In fact, I can think of only one better way to revisit to a place that, six years ago, whetted my appetite so thoroughly: going back.

Juniper in June

Eventually I'll make it to Finland, a place that's intrigued me since Conan O'Brien televised his short visit to the country back in February 2006. Since then I've developed a fearful respect for their music, an intense appreciation of their endurance, and most recently, a fondness for their unique style of beer. Until I get around to booking a flight to Helsinki however, I'll have to find ways to get my Finnish fix stateside.

Fortunately, Bierkraft in Brooklyn has begun to carry (at least for the time being) a tasty Swedish/Norwegian sahti brewed and bottled at Nøgne Ø in Grimstad. I tried a bottle of it after dinner last night and thoroughly enjoyed its sweet, herbal character. Eleven percent alcohol by volume and made with rye, wheat, juniper twigs, sea wormwood, plus a generous dose of honey, it's not for everyone, yet if you have an adventurous palate, sahti is well worth trying.

Similar in some ways to Rogue's flavorful Juniper Pale Ale, this cloudy, somewhat tart drink produces an ample head of beige foam and pours a burnt orange or medium amber color. I'm not sure if this type of beer tastes best after a marathon sauna session or a Lordi concert, but I do hope it helps me crank out a review of Hanne Hukkleberg's new album Blood From A Stone later this week.