Sights and Bites Along Cape Cod's Old King's Highway

Every summer, thousands of drivers get caught in the crawling queue that backs up the Mid-Cape Highway, chipping away at patience and time better spent at the beach or on the water. Starting in Sandwich on the Upper Cape, dodge the traffic and take a scenic detour down the Old King's Highway, a quieter road that hugs the coast out to Provincetown. From cranberry bogs to picturesque church steeples, there’s much more to see on Route 6A and plenty of places to pull off for a quick snack or leisurely diversion.

Founded in 1969 and recognizable by its wrought iron roadside statue, Titcomb’s Bookshop has evolved from a small antiquarian book dealer into a three-story business with an international following. Stop in to flip through A History of Chowder, grab a game for the kids, or pick up a paperback to bring to Sandy Neck Beach Park just up the road. Lifeguarded from Memorial Day to Labor Day, the beach is accessible with a parking sticker or a day pass ($15-20). Go for a dip, read under your umbrella, or take a short hike on the nature trail to look for signs of deer, reptiles, and wading birds. After a little sun, continue into Barnstable for a visit to Cape Cod Beer, a craft brewery that proudly advertises “a vacation in every pint.” Cape Cod Red, a full-flavored amber ale is their bestseller, but on a hot day, Beach Blonde, a golden-hued easy drinker might be a better choice. Time your stop with a tour and tasting (Monday-Saturday), or grab a growler to go (from $11).

Around the Baltic for Rails to Trails

Every once in a while an entire autumn afternoon will slip by as I gaze out the window, daydreaming about Scandinavia. For years I've told myself that one more trip will cure me of the urge to see another corner of this region, yet even before I get back home again I'm thinking about my next visit. But until I stumble into a pile of money, I'm going to have to content myself with infrequent tours and meals at bus terminals instead of swank restaurants like Rene Redzepi's Noma. Lucky for me cafeteria dining can also make for a good story.

It's been eight months since my last visit, a trip that included several days in Helsinki where the Finns were close to finishing their Baana cycleway. In the winter 2013 issue of Rails to Trails, I write about this new rail trail as well as longer routes in Denmark, Estonia, and Norway. The ice and snow on the ground kept me from biking around Finland's capital city, but hopefully I'll be able to do some two-wheeled exploring when I eventually make it back. Then again, a blogger by the name of Hendrik has me thinking that I might want to do some hiking too.

Over the Hudson for Rails to Trails

It was an overcast morning last autumn when I boarded the train to Poughkeepsie. Arriving at the Queen City of the Hudson, I walked uphill from the station to Parker Avenue, where I soon found the entrance to the world's longest pedestrian bridge, the Walkway Over the Hudson. I had made the journey north from New York before, but that day I was on assignment for Rails to Trails, researching my second piece for the magazine.

In the two years since the 1.3-mile long recreational trail opened to the public, it's won awards from the Society for Industrial Archeology, the Environmental Protection Agency, and the International Bridge Conference. And with a new connection to the Hudson Valley Rail Trail on the west side of the Walkway, the park is an ideal place to get some exercise or take the dog for a walk. Both ends of the bridge are also wheelchair accessible. But the dramatic views up and down the river make it worth visiting even if you're not inclined to take Metro North to Poughkeepsie for a workout. Read more about the Walkway—easily one of my favorite places in the Hudson Valley—in the fall issue of Rails to Trails.

Pairing Beer with the Great Outdoors

On a steamy afternoon in mid-July, waiting out a thundershower at the Peekskill Brewery, I had an idea. Nothing earth-shattering mind you, but I jotted it down in the notebook I was carrying with me at the time. Which means that when the rain finally stopped it didn't drift off with the storm clouds. Perhaps it's the heat in Bangkok, or maybe I'm just pining for a pint of  Peekskill's dry, sessionable Hop Common, but I was reminded of that same idea again today. 

What if craft brewers positioned themselves to be the drink of choice for certain outdoor activities the way Coors, Miller, and Budweiser jockey to be the "official beer" of popular sports like baseball and football? Sure, the customer pool of NFL fans is considerably larger than the potential market for say, windsurfers, but then again, this audience will probably be more receptive to a product that isn't necessarily mainstream. Although last year, Anheuser-Busch made an attempt to court outdoor enthusiasts by choosing professional kayaker Eric Jackson as the face of their new American Ale. 

Which got me thinking—what would the beer sponsorship landscape look like if regional brewers got in on the action? How would they attract new drinkers if they were trying to partner with the Hawaii Surfing Association, or the American Hiking Society? Personally, I could see a scenario along these lines:

• Long Trail Ale, an easy drinking altbier made for long distance hikers. 
• For the dedicated cyclist, New Belgium's popular amber ale, Fat Tire.  
• Kona's Longboard Island Lager, a drink to grab after a day in the surf.
• Russian River's Damnation—meant for the kayaker who charges into rapids at full speed. 
• Malty Hibernation Ale from Great Divide, a warming winter beer for serious snowboarders.
• The dry-hopped Hazed and Confused, brewed for bold rock climbers by Boulder Beer Company. 
• Lake Erie Monster, a hoppy windsurfing lover's IPA from Great Lakes Brewing Company.
• Fresh Powder Milk Stout, Lake Placid's ode to skiing the Adirondacks.  

So, what do you think? Is there a perfect craft beer out there for your outdoor activity of choice?

Rails to Trails Cover Feature

Back in the spring, I spent a couple of days on Cape Cod, talking to locals, sampling the seafood, and riding from Wellfleet to South Dennis on their 22-mile rail trail. I was on assignment for Rails to Trails magazine, exploring the area for their Fall 2010 issue. 

Although I didn't make it all the way out to P-town, cyclists with more time than I had should also check out the Cape Cod National Seashore trail network. There are nearly ten miles of additional bike paths within the park's boundaries. And finally, as I have mentioned before, if you're planning a trip out to one of the towns on the Cape, consider booking a stay at the Fort Hill Bed and Breakfast in Eastham. The views, the hosts, and the three-course breakfasts (more energy for long rides) are truly exceptional.

Rooms With Views

National Park Week—your chance to visit any of the 392 national parks in the United States for free—comes to an end in three short days. Of course, many of the best weeks for exploring America's natural heritage are still ahead. Park attendance around the country typically spikes during the summer months.

During a trip to Massachusetts earlier this month, I spent a couple of nights at the Fort Hill Bed and Breakfast, a historic farmhouse that innkeepers Gordon and Jean Avery have turned into an absurdly comfortable place to stay within the Cape Cod National Seashore. Besides offering unobstructed views of Nauset Marsh and the ocean beyond, Fort Hill is steps from the Red Maple Swamp Trail and a short distance from the Salt Pond Visitor Center. Hiking, biking, swimming, and surfing are just some of the activities available to visitors who stay at this unique B&B.

Lesser-Traveled Roads

Besides plenty of surf and scrumpy, Cornwall happens to have an abundance of quiet, traffic-free cycle trails. Last fall I followed part of one called the First and Last from Penzance to Land's End and back. Along the way I snapped dozens of photos with my digital still camera; seven of them ended up in a slideshow for World Hum.

For those who haven't considered a visit to westernmost England, perhaps these images will persuade you to think again. If biking doesn't sound appealing though, take your pick of half a dozen Rail Ale Trails instead.

All Geared Up

Well, the rain appears to have relented here in New York City—at least temporarily—the weekend forecast calls for more showers. But I'll take the reprieve, however brief. After four straight days of gray skies and wet streets, even a few hours of morning sun is enough lift your spirits and get you out of the house. Especially during National Bike Month.

I haven't taken my 12-speed out for a spin around the neighborhood yet this spring, but I'm a firm believer in a bicycle friendly America, and often pedal to points of interest in Europe. It's a fun, easy way to practice sustainable tourism, and one more thing you can do to make sure part of your travel budget is going back to the local community.

During a recent visit to Cornwall for instance, I rented a Trek for £10 at The Cycle Centre and took it from Penzance to Land's End and back. I thoroughly enjoyed the ride itself, and didn't feel the least bit guilty about ordering extra bacon with my English breakfast the next day.